1998 Volnay 1er Cru Les Champans, Marquis d`Angerville

"Round, dense, powerful, very concentrated and structured flavors are introduced by earth-inflected, bright red pinot fruit aromas and this finishes with real style and exceptionally good length. This is a very solid effort with a bit more elegance and finesse than usual. I like this as it's very Champans as there is an underlying muscularity and a firmness to the finish. As to maturity, while it could certainly be approached now with an hour's aeration, for my taste, I would allow it to rest in the cellar for another 3 to 5 years. Drink 2013+."  Allen Meadows, Burghound, May 2010